2016-12-30 – New Orleans, LA and Start of Cruise

Today was our last day in New Orleans. This morning we rode the St. Charles Streetcar through the Garden District and this afternoon we boarded our cruise ship: the Norwegian Dawn.

Streetcar

The New Orleans streetcar system is the oldest streetcar system in the world (or maybe just in the United States? I’m not sure). The St. Charles streetcar is the most famous route of the New Orleans streetcar system and that is the one we rode. We got on near Canal Street and went all the way on through the Garden District and a way into the neighborhoods west of the Garden District. The Garden District had some very nice houses. They were old Southern-style mansions with large porches with ornate columns. The windows on the cars were pretty dirty so I didn’t take any pictures, but I’m sure you can find some on the web.

Boarding the Ship

We got back to the hotel and checked out, then we walked down to the cruise terminal. We had to stand in quite a few queues for security checks, and check in, but it didn’t take too long. After dropping our carry-ons off at our rooms, we went to eat and explore the boat.

The boat is way more confusing to navigate than the other cruise boats I’ve been on. For one, there are like 10 different dining options (I’m not complaining, but it does complicate the process of getting food). Anyway, I found the sports deck and played some soccer with some kids. (I’m really out of shape right now, not a good sign because I have to go back home and start playing soccer again.)

That was about all that happened today. Tomorrow is a day at sea, hopefully I find some fun stuff to do.

2016-12-29 – New Orleans, LA

Today we spent the entire day at the National World War II Museum.


There were three main exhibits: an exhibit about the European Theatre of the war and an exhibition about the Pacific Theatre of the war and an exhibit with some WWII planes. Overall, it was a good comprehensive overview of the war. My writing skills can do it no justice so I won’t try. I also didn’t take many pictures, so there won’t be much to this post besides a recommendation to go to this museum.

Tomorrow we are boarding the boat for our Caribbean Cruise. There is limited Wi-Fi on the boat so I will have to wait to post until I’m in port (which will be most days).

2016-12-28 – New Orleans, LA

Today we went on a Segway tour of the city and then went straight to a river boat tour which went down the Mississippi River to the site of Andrew Jacksons stand in the Battle of New Orleans.

Segway Tour

After breakfast, we walked to Decatur street where the Segway tour company is located. We practiced riding the Segways in the company’s “office” and then headed out onto the streets.

We toured all around the French Quarter and into two of the surrounding neighborhoods. The guide explained some of New Orleans’ history and pointed out some of the interesting sights along the way. One of the most interesting thing was that New Orleanians don’t call medians “medians”, they call them “neutral grounds”. This is because each of the neighborhoods used to be separately governed. The streets, however, were neutral and thus all commerce was done in the middle of the street out of reach of either jurisdiction. So to this day, medians in New Orleans are called “neutral grounds”.


Our guide also explained some of the History of New Orleans. I’ve compiled what I’ve learned from our various guides below. (If there are any inaccuracies, please let me know.)

History of New Orleans

The Mississippi River and all of its watershed were claimed for France by in 1699. New Orleans was founded by the French in 1718. The French controlled New Orleans for about 50 years. The French built New Orleans in the area that is now known as the French Quarter, but only three buildings in that neighborhood are actually French. The others were burned in the fires during the Spanish rule.

New Orleans came under Spanish rule after the Seven Years War. Known in the American Theatre as The French and Indian War, the Seven Years War was the first worldwide war. The end result that we care about is that France ceded all of Louisiana to Spain in the treaty ending the war. New Orleans was not notified of the change in rule for two years. During Spanish rule, the city burned to the ground twice. The first time because someone didn’t extinguish his altar candles while he went to lunch. After that fire, the city was rebuilt in the Spanish style and as they were rebuilding, a second fire broke out, this time due to two boys playing with matches in a hay shed. After this second devastating fire, the Spanish rebuilt again, this time implementing fire codes preventing houses from being made of wood and requiring courtyards with wells to be able to fight fires.

In 1800, Napoleon corrected the Spanish to give Louisiana back to the French. Three years later, in 1803, Thomas Jefferson bought Louisiana in the biggest land deal in the history of the world. Jefferson only wanted to buy New Orleans for 10 million dollars. Napoleon was in need of money to conquer Europe, so he offered to sell all of Louisiana for 15 million dollars. Thomas Jefferson agreed and so the biggest land deal in history was made. The land acquired ended up costing 4¢/acre. Where did the extra 5 million dollars come from? Britain loaned it to us. What did Napoleon do with the money? He attacked Britain.

New Orleans has always been a strategic strongpoint on the Mississippi since whoever controls that city controls all commerce along the Mississippi. The British knew this, and during the War of 1812, the British attacked New Orleans. Until this point in the war, American forces had invaded French Canada conquering Montreal but then being defeated on the Plains of Abraham outside of Quebec (see my post from this summer when my mom and I were there). Over in Europe, Napoleon was defeated (remember, Napoleon was fighting the British with American money borrowed from the British) and the entire might of the British Empire came to bear on the small United States of America. Washington DC was sacked, the Capital and White House was burned, and George Washington’s portrait was saved by the First Lady. The British advances in the north were halted at Ft. McHenry where the famous words of the national anthem were penned by Francis Scott Key.

The British then moved south and invaded New Orleans. After gaining control of Lake Borgne, the British landed and camped at a plantation south of New Orleans in late December. Upon hearing this, Andrew Jackson, the general in charge of protecting the city of New Orleans, ordered a night attack of the British encampment. The British held their position, but preparations were delayed giving the Americans time to fortify a canal on the Chalmette Plantation. The spot was specifically chosen because it was the narrowest point between the British and New Orleans. On January 8th, the British attacked. The British had to advance across wide open fields to attack the American position. They marched in the traditional head-on attack formation but despite their ranks being torn apart by cannon, musket and rifle fire from behind the battle work, the British soldiers continued marching. Jackson later said after the battle that he respected the soldiers for their relentless marching in the face of enormous casualties. The British commander and many officers were killed, and the Americans grapeshot ripped through the British lines. Few British made it to the breastwork and those that scaled it were immediately killed or captured. After suffering huge losses, the British commander in reserve brought his troops to cover the retreat of what remained of the British army on the field. Casualties for the British totaled over 2000 (285 of which were killed). There were 62 casualties (13 killed) for the Americans. Jackson did all of this with only 4500 men while the British had nearly 14
,000.

Because of the significance of the Battle of New Orleans, January 8th was celebrated as the second Independence Day in America. During the Civil War, however, Louisiana became part of the Confederate States of America and the importance of the Battle of New Orleans was greatly marginalized during the Reconstruction period.

Boat Tour

After the Segway tour we went on a riverboat tour where we went down the river to the Chalmette Plantation, the site of the Battle of New Orleans. As I have already described the battle, I won’t elaborate here. On the way down, we saw the Lower and Upper Ninth Ward and St. Bernard Parish where the majority of the flooding occurred during Hurricane Katrina and our guide described some of the various sights along the way.

I’ll go ahead and stop here, I am already behind on my writing.

2016-12-27 – New Orleans, LA

This morning we woke up to very dense fog. (See below.) I don’t think I’ve ever been in such dense fog for such a long time.


We ate breakfast downstairs and then headed out down Decatur St. (duh-kay-ter) to Toulouse St. (toe-loose) where we met a guide (BilliJo) for a plantation tour. We boarded one bus, but then we had to move to another bus since the first one had some sort of problem. Not a very auspicious beginning to today’s excursion. Eventually we got on a bus and there weren’t any more vehicle troubles.

On the way, our guide told us about some of the history of New Orleans and pointed out some of the sights. Unfortunately because of the dense fog, we weren’t able to see much. It was pretty once we got out of the city though.

The tour dropped people off at three plantations (you could choose two out of three to tour). We chose the Laura plantation and the Oak Alley Plantation.

Laura Plantation

The Laura Plantation was first owned by the DuPark family and was named the DuPark plantation at the time. Eventually, after four generations of drama, the plantation was inherited by Laura (her father had renamed the plantation after her). Those four generations of drama consisted of everything from death by arsenic poisoning (it was supposed to cure someone’s daughter’s acne. It did, but it also killed her) to multiple slave-mistresses. One sad story was that one man had children with a slave and those children grew up to be slaves for the man’s mother. Her biological grandchildren were her slaves, but they were thought of as sub-human.

When Laura inherited the plantation, she wanted nothing to do with plantation life and the slave labour upon which it was built. She sold the plantation to the Waguespack family for virtually nothing. After Laura moved north, she began writing her memoir which has been used to reconstruct much of the plantation’s history.

We toured the plantation house, the slave quarters, and a few other structures on the plantation. I would write about what we saw, but it was kinda information overload. It was a good tour though, and I learned quite a bit.

Below are some pictures from the Laura Plantation.

Oak Alley Plantation

After touring Laura Plantation, we went on to Oak Alley Plantation. Named after the avenue of Oak trees which create a beautiful canopy from the road to the plantation home.

We ate the lunch that we had gotten last night at Jimmy Johns and then walked around the the reconstructed slave buildings. Then it was time for us to go on a tour of the house. We went through about 10 rooms of the house which had been restored back to the state it was in during the residency of the Roman family in the 1800s. The Roman family did not have the same amount of drama as the DuParks (or at least it wasn’t emphasised), but they, too owned many slaves who worked the plantation. I’ll take this moment to say that the primary crop was sugar cane.

Here are some pictures of the Oak Alley Plantation.

Back in New Orleans

Our tour bus picked us back up from Oak Alley and we headed back to New Orleans. (The plantations we visited were about half way between New Orleans and Batton Rouge (bat-on r-oo-j). In New Orleans we wandered our way through the French Quarter to the Red Fish Grill. We had BBQ Oysters for an appetizer, they were basically like BBQ chicken wings. For my main course I had a really good Gumbo.

After that we came back to the hotel and I worked on writing this. Tomorrow we are doing a Segway tour of the French Quarter, so that should be fun.

2016-12-26 – Denver to New Orleans

Abstract (because I know nobody reads the whole thing anyway)

We flew to New Orleans and walked around the French Quarter.


Today we began another adventure. We began the day in Denver, CO and ended up in New Orleans, LA (pronounced: naw-lens). My day started at 04:00. Yes, that’s 4 AM. Let’s just say I don’t want to have to wake up at 04:00 again any time soon.

Flight to New Orleans

We drove to DIA, checked in, and went through security. For some reason we were TSA Pre so we got to go in the short (nonexistent) line and we didn’t even have to take off our shoes! TSA Pre For The Win! Once through security, we had tons of time because someone in our family (dad) likes to arrive at things about twice as early as necessary. It all worked out ok because we were able to eat a relaxed breakfast in the airport before boarding our flight.

On the flight, we sat right behind Brandon, a Mines graduate who works at Google and who has come down for a few Mines recruiting events for Google (#connections). I sleep through basically the entire flight so I was happy about that. After getting our bags at baggage claim, we went outside to the taxi rank. As soon as we stepped outside, we were hit with Southern, humid air, you know, the air that makes you immediately feel sweaty. I don’t like feeling sweaty, but I am thankful that it is not –23 ºC (–9 ºF) or something terrible like that.

The taxi came quickly and the ride to our hotel was uneventful. For the most part, outside of the French quarter (more on that later), New Orleans seems like any other big American city. We were to check in immediately when we arrived at the hotel (the Drury Inn and Suites) so we went to put our luggage in the room. Mom was able to find a nice big room for us to stay in for the next few nights.

Walking the French Quarter

Our hotel is basically right on Bourbon (burr-bin) Street (it’s actually called Carondelet St. (I have no idea how to pronounce that) here, but inside the French Quarter. it becomes Bourbon Street). We were able to walk straight down to the heart of the French Quarter. Taking away all the “Gentlemen’s Clubs”, it feels very European. We stopped at Cafe Beignet (bin-yay) for a late lunch. It was basically a glorified food stand with a large courtyard with live music. I had some Jambalaya (jum-bah-lie-uh) and a beignet. The Jambalaya was a bit spicier than I expected, but it was good. The beignet was good too (I mainly ate the powdered sugar on top though).

Cafe Beignet
Cafe Beignet
Performers at Cafe Beignet
Performers at Cafe Beignet

After lunch, we continued down Bourbon St. About half way through the French Quarter, it became much more residential. Crime seems to be a fairly big problem since most of the fences have spikes at the tops to prevent drunks/general troublemakers from getting in. We cut down a street to Royal St. which had a lot of art galleries (much less sketchy than Bourbon St). There were street performers at almost every corner and we stopped to watch a juggler who had a pretty cool act. We went another street down (by down, I mean towards the Mississippi River) and across to St. Louis Cathedral. Unfortunately, it was closed. (Most of the museums here are opened on Sunday, but close on Monday.) There were more street performers though, and we stopped to watch a jazz band. After that we continued on towards the Mississippi and found the place where we need to meet our guide for tomorrows plantation tour.

Back to the Hotel

We were ready to be off our feet so we walked to the St. Charles tram. Unfortunately, everyone and their brother had the same idea and the tram was packed. I’m pretty sure it was packed mainly with tourists. We decided that it wasn’t going to be much fun and gave up. Maybe we can ride it another day.

Back at the hotel, we hung out for a few minutes. I worked on this blog post (you’re welcome ) and then we went downstairs for dinner. There is a buffet-style restaurant downstairs with food. It isn’t spectacular, but it was edible and included with the price of the room. Then we walked down to Jimmy Johns to get sandwiches for tomorrow. I got this photo while we were out getting Jimmy Johns.

A cool building lit up at night
A cool building lit up at night

Now we are back in the hotel getting ready to go to bed.

Retrospective

Half of the day was spent traveling, but we were still able to see a lot of New Orleans this afternoon. I think the best way to describe New Orleans is Quebec City mixed with Las Vegas. Architecturally, it reminds me of Quebec City, mainly because of the French influence and multitude of art venues I think. But it also has a darker side, the Vegas Strip side. I haven’t had much time to formulate my thoughts yet, so I think that’s it for now.